Refrigerators

Donmystic1 · Post by **Donmystic1** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 6:46 pm

What brands and sizes of refers AC/DC are you using. My boat has a Kenmore 110 ac and I can't find any invertor so it must run on 110 all the time with the gen set running. Are the conversion kits any good? I have seen some over the road "truckers" models that look ok. My opening looks like it is 24" x 33" Thanks Don

franklyprice · Post by **franklyprice** » Mon Jan 04, 2010 7:22 pm

If you do a search on "refrigerator" you will find some info. Lots of options .

h2ojst · Post by **h2ojst** » Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:32 am

Mine has the original Sub-Zero unit which works great, but 110V only. I just finished installing a Xantrex XM1800 inverter & wired it directly to the frig breaker in the panel. Works really nice & gives me the option of not running the geny all the time. Also has it's own built in transfer switch & additional GFI outlet and remote panel. Joe Tomaini 1988 Sportfish Attitude Adjustment II Fort Lauderdale, FL

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:19 am

I just installed a 110 volt fridge in my boat. The old 110 volt unit was not original, was ancient, and did not work. I looked at marine dual voltage units which cost about $700 as I recall. I decided if I need to run the unit on 12 volts. I can buy a inverter such as Joe did. (Thanks for the info Joe!). My 110 volt Lowes unit cost about $150 and has a lock on the top edge above the door, so I can lock it closed when underway. We had a fridge door open at sea in a blow several years ago (in a sailboat), and since I was the only one who didn't get sick cleaning up the mess (broken eggs, other food, milk, and soup, with several broken glass containers)I volunteered. Not a nice thing to have to do. I made a resolution then and there that any fridge I had in a boat in the future would have some way to keep the door locked underway.

schultz · Post by **schultz** » Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:49 am

I replaced mine last winter. A major consideration is getting max size to fit through the cabin door. Go to Sailor Sams dot com. I went with the Stainless Steel AC/DC with small freezer. The freezer is to small and would suggest same model without. It fits through the cabin door of my 1983 33SF by removing the door off the hinges with about 1/16th of clearance. The amp draw is about 3 and is very quite. A great upgrade from the original Norcold without having to do much cabinet refit. If interested I can up load a finished photo.

buzzk · Post by **buzzk** » Tue Jan 05, 2010 12:57 pm

My refrigerator is only 110. I don't see much use in the 12 volt because I always have my generator running. In NC I've either got my A/C or heat on. Do you guys with the 110/12 volt use the 12 volt much? Buzz

h2ojst · Post by **h2ojst** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 4:43 am

There have been quite a few times here in South Florida, especially Nov. through Feb. where you don't need the A/C at night to sleep & the only thing I was running the geny for, was the frig. It kept OK over night without electricity, but the inverter really does the job and it also runs the TV and a coffee pot in the morning. I'm loving it so far. It's running off an 8D AGM and I've never even gotten close to running it down overnight. The bottom line is, the inverter installation was cheaper for me than a new A/C D/C frig. and it serves other purposes. Joe Tomaini 1988 Sportfish Attitude Adjustment II Fort Lauderdale, FL

captgene · Post by **captgene** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:51 am

I replaced mine when I bought the boat with a 110 U-Line. Expensive, but it is identical to the SubZero that was in there. So it has been in there 10 yrs now. Joe, I really would like to see how you put in that inverter. I've thought about it for a long time. I normally shut down the genset when running to the Bahamas or when offshore if I'm not sitting in the air conditioning. Of coarse the frige is off too, and if I have stuff in it, it sure warms up in a hurry in the summer. Gene Dugan Boca Raton, Fl. "Nauti Marie" 1989 33 FBC 2007 8.1 Crusaders

Rick · Post by **Rick** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:59 am

Cliff is right about that cabin door space. I took out my original Norcold and had it repaired at a RV store. Cabin door, Fridge door, mounting brackets.....they all had go to get that thing through the opening. Rick Ticket 85 SF Merc 454 MPI's Falmouth, MA

h2ojst · Post by **h2ojst** » Wed Jan 06, 2010 9:54 am

Your welcome to take a look anytime Gene. It really works great. Call me @954-914-9440. Joe Tomaini 1988 Sportfish Attitude Adjustment II Fort Lauderdale, FL

retman · Post by **retman** » Thu Jan 07, 2010 6:09 am

2 years ago I installed a Nova Kool AC/DC in retriever. I believe it was a model 5810. It was the only dual voltage unit I could find that would fill the space left from the SubZero. I installed a extra breaker in a blank hole in the panel for the DC and plugged the AC into the outlet from the original fridge. I had to remove the panel behind the fridge to provide ventilation for the condenser. So far so good, almost silent and keeps everything cold with minimal battery drain.

Post by **dougl33** » Thu Jan 07, 2010 9:49 am

The price on that fridge is $1500. I think if/when mine takes a dump I'll go with a 110 unit with an inverter.

h2ojst · Post by **h2ojst** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 6:01 am

Check out the XM 1800 Doug. It has its own built in transfer switch & remote panel for under 400 bucks. The additional wiring & breakers were another couple hundred. As in any project, running the wires is the hardest part, hookup was easy. Joe Tomaini 1988 Sportfish Attitude Adjustment II Fort Lauderdale, FL

retman · Post by **retman** » Fri Jan 08, 2010 7:46 am

Yeah, it wasn't cheap. I paid 1132.00 plus frt. But my boat is primarily on a mooring or at anchor and I didn't want the current draw of a Kenmore running from a inverter since plugging in is not a option at the end of the day to recharge.

mikehedb · Post by **mikehedb** » Sat Feb 27, 2010 6:36 pm

I just replaced my Norcold with a 110v GE that is 4.3 cu. ft.. It has a stainless panel on the door and came with a key lock to hold it closed when necessary. The unit cost $139.00 at Sam's Club. fastened teak El trim to the top and sides, then slide the fridge in place and screwed through the teak into the cabinet to hold it in place. I have a 7.3 Kohler so 110v power is not a problem when needed. It looks great and I'm happy with it so far.