Interior

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Fri Nov 30, 2007 7:47 pm

Just to keep you all informed.. I finished the last room (except the room over the garage) of my house and am now getting ready to start on the boat. I scored two full 4' x 8', 1/8" thick sheets of teak veneered plywood two weeks ago from a local yacht broker who sold his B35 before he was able to redo it (he says his family is still upset with him for letting it go), along with a whole roll of 1/4" foam backed lightly textured vinyl to apply to the inside of the forepeak. If anyone is interested, I might have some extra, which will be available after I am done. I will get the damn dirty mouse fir off one way or another (Al.. I am planning on using the Fein Multitool with the flat knife blade! The guy I mentioned above tore as much of the stuff off as he could by brute force, but used a rotary angle grinder to finish the job.) I also found about 100 miles north of here a veneer and lumber mill with a outlet store where I can buy any quantity of veneer, plywood and hardwood I want. Their prices are OK, and I can pick and choose from their stock. I bought two 4' x 8' sheets of teak veneer with a 10 mil backing, so I am pretty well set now with 4 sheets of teak to cover all the existing formica. I will buy some teak boards later, after I start work and can get a materials list together. I find if I buy expensive wood for a project without a well thought out idea on what I actually need I usually buy too much. But, before I start the cabin interior, I have to repair the rot and delaminations in the aft cabin bulkhead. I will do this from the inside, rather than the outside, as I am recovering everything inside anyway. This and a wooden door to replace the sliding metal and glass door will be the first projects. So.. the fun is soon to begin.. I will be taking pictures, so stay tuned. Frank B - IRGuy@aol.com "Phoenix" 1983 FBC Wilmington, NC

schultz · Post by **schultz** » Sat Dec 01, 2007 4:11 pm

Frank, I might be interested in the foam vinyl for the very small area around the rope locker teak door in the 33 SF. What color is it? I am going in a different interior remodel direction (which is OK because boat ownership has never been a team sport. I have used a 6o grit sand paper over the formica, then applied a coat of West System (all wood boat owners know it stick's like monkey **** to anything. At the same time all teak trim get's sanded with 150, 220 then 320. Apply the West System to the teak and the formica. After the West System cures sand it with 150, the teak with 220. Start applying 4 coats of high grade varnish to the teak. Apply two coats of Pettit Easy Poxy Undercoat to the Formica. After the second coat sand with 150 then apply a top coat of Pettit Easy Poxy Top Coat. You can use a 4" roller with both the West Syestem and the Easy Poxy Undercoat and Top Coat. For the Top Coat smooth out with a Badger Hair Brush. If you need a better final finish lightly sand with 220 and roll/brush a second top coat. Lots of steps but the price is right and the end results look like teak trim / fiberglass. No worries about wear and tear, West System will coat and stick to any surface you have. At the same time I am upgrading to include quite a few LED lights in the salon, forward stateroom and cockpit at the same time along with entertainment systems. The key with the SF model is take out the dinette table (making a new one with laminated wood) the bulkhead pannel behind it, the bulkhead pannels in the strb cabinet and the interior pannels of the stateroom lockers. With these removed you can run and find all the wiring for just about any system you need and paint the pannels at home (start with them for practice. This winter will be a redo of all area's except the galley and head. Next winter will be a redo of the galley. Corian counter top. Larger refer, sink (new location) microwave where the two drawers are above the counter, single glass top range. If anyone can give me tips on removing the existing formica top without damaging any existing surface or cabinets please advise. Thanks in advance. Will try to send some photo's of work in progress. Cliff Schultz 1983 SF "Final Approach"

Rick · Post by **Rick** » Sun Dec 02, 2007 6:50 am

Cliff, Wow - You're work is inspiring ! I'm about to start removing the dinette in a '85 SF and was wondering if you had any advice in getting started. I need to change the water tank and thus need access to the hatch that runs under the dinette. The key is I want to get it back together the way it is. Is it better to start in the middle or on the ends ? I've been thinking the ends but I'd be interested to hear what you think. Rick Ticket 85 SF Falmouth, MA

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Sun Dec 02, 2007 9:47 am

Cliff... Thanks for your comments! I would like to speak with you about your coating procedure. I plan on teak veneering quite a bit of the existing surfaces, Formica, composite and some fiberglas probably, but I want to refinish the flat counter just aft of the windshield with something that retains the fiberglas look, as well as some other surfaces. I am quite familiar with the West epoxy stuff.. everything I make that goes below the floor gets coated with it, and yes.. it adheres to just about anything. I bought some thickener and white colorant, so I can coat just about anything, but have not tried it on Formica. I have not painted it, because what I have used it for so far has been out of sight. With a good slug of colorant it is opaque, but pure white, so for visible surfaces it needs to be painted to match the surroundings. Regarding the vinyl material I have, it is an off white color (some would call it "bone") with a faint pattern which sort of looks like lightly distressed leather. I think it will look great as a forepeak covering, and I am told the foam stuff is easier to apply (more foregiving) than the straight vinyl with no foam backing. I went to my storage locker this AM and cut off a small sample, which I will send to you if you can drop me an email note with your phone number and address. The label on the box says 9 1/2 yards, but I am not sure if this is the length or the area. It is 54" wide. Apparently this stuff is difficult to get.. the yacht broker who I bought it from said he had to have a boat manufacturer get it for him from the factory, and he had to buy a whole roll. Pls drop me an email with your phone number so we can talk, and your address so I can send you the sample. Frank B - IRGuy@aol.com "Phoenix" 1983 FBC Wilmington, NC

schultz · Post by **schultz** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 4:46 am

Hi Rick, Thanks for the kind word's. As far as removing the dinette I think I would: 1. Remove the table 2. Remove all of the drawers under the dinette. 3. Remove the center floor section of the dinette (mine has wood screws at the base of each seat. With these items removed you should be able to detemine what needs to come out next. On my boat there is a small access deck plate screwed down just under the center section of the dinette, I guess that is what you are trying to access. My freshwater (poly) tank is mounted on the center line against the engine room bulkhead. Apparntly this is not original as the water tank gauge is not hooked up. It looks like about 70 gallons and can be lifted directly out of the salon deck hatch. The boat was also fitted with a poly holding tank for the head. The Lexsan system has been removed. This holding tank is mounted on the centerline direclty under the foward salon deck hatch. This is blocking my being able to climb down into the foward area of the salon bilge. There is a forward bilge pump loced there and much of the wiring and plumbing for the galley and AC unit. I plan on locating a access hatch inside the large strb hanging locker over the winter. Hope this may help. In closing this small access plate located dirctley under the dawer face of the dinnete is quite small. I am not sure if you need to remove it at all. Perhaps the previous owner of my boat had the original water tank cut up in place and removed without taking the dinnete out. It looks like the tank in place can be taken in and out thru the salon deck hatch without removing anything. What is your freshwater tank made of? Cliff

Rick · Post by **Rick** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:50 am

Cliff, The original tank is 70 Gallon Aluminum. I thought of cutting up the existing tank to get it out of there but figured that I wanted to replace it with a matched Poly Tank anyway. Doesn't sound like a huge job getting it out of there but could easily turn into one. I'll hope for the best which never works on these projects. Good luck with your work, hope we see some pic's when it's done. Thanks for the tips, huge help. Rick Ticket 85 SF Falmouth, MA

lobsta1 · Post by **lobsta1** » Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:58 pm

Frank B. As far as pulling the fake "bunny fur" off, I was advised to cut it in strips. Then use vise grips to pull the strips. You could do that while using the Fein. Here is a link to more reasonably priced blades for the Fein. You could also try making your own out of a cheap back saw. Al http://stores.ebay.com/besserklinge_W0Q ... esstQQtZkm

IRGuy · Post by **IRGuy** » Wed Dec 05, 2007 5:28 am

Al... Once again.. You da man! Thanks for the lead! I buy Fein blades from a local tool supply store.. the only one in town. Each time I buy them the sales guys sort of wince and tell me they are sorry that the prices are so high! I love the tool, and use it a lot, but the cost of the blades is out of sight. Will try some of the ones in the lead you posted. BTW.. somewhere in my checkered past I picked up a pair of vice grip pliers with flat blades about 3" wide instead of the toothed narrow jaws. It appears to be a tool used by sheet metal workers. I can't recall where I got it (it was well used) but it is great for pulling canvas and cloth off of surfaces. I plan to strip the mouse fir off with this tool. Frank B - IRGuy@aol.com "Phoenix" 1983 FBC Wilmington, NC