fuel tank size
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Aussie Syd
- Commander

- Posts: 125
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:55 pm
- Location: Australia
fuel tank size
Does anyone have the correct measurements of the sportfish 1988 model 310 gal fuel tank size, which includes all dimensions and shape sizes. Also I am interested where the baffles would be located and how far they are apart and if there is access to the bottom of the tank thru or underneath each of the baffles from the fuel outlet on the top of the tank. I want to try and clean out the inside of the tank. Hope you can help Syd
Syd, Don't you ever take on a small project ? HAA! There are measurements for my tank....an '85 SF. Good chance yours is very similar. Measure the distance between the Stringers, see if it's the same as mine (32"). Thread is here: http://www.bertram33.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=883 Baffles I belive are at the inner 32" marks. Rick Ticket 85 SF Merc 454 MPI's Falmouth, MA
Rick
Ticket 85 SF Merc 454 MPI's USCG 50T Masters w/ Towing Endorsement
Falmouth, MA
Ticket 85 SF Merc 454 MPI's USCG 50T Masters w/ Towing Endorsement
Falmouth, MA
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Aussie Syd
- Commander

- Posts: 125
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:55 pm
- Location: Australia
Thanks your help Rick, I was thinking next time I slip the boat to take out the remaining fuel in the tank and see if I could suck up any remaining dirt in the tank with a wet and dry vaccum cleaner thru the fuel outlet , but if the baffles block access to the back of the tank there would be no point in doing that. I would assume most of the remaining build up of dirt would be on the bottom in corners and behind the baffles of the tank. Syd
Ditto on the use of a shop vac or any electical motor that's not explosion proof. All the professional tank cleaners first remove the oval plate that is bolted to the top of the tank. That will give you access to most of the bottom of the tank. They then use an explosion proof motor-pump assembly and clean out the tank with a long hose and a length of copper tubing and vacuum the tank this way. The pump is on the dock and away from all gas vapor. You can get quite a bit of crud out using this method. While you're at it, it's also a good idea to pull out the fuel pick-ups and make sure these are clean. Re-assemble the plate with a new gasket & sealer & you'll be good to go. Joe Tomaini 1988 Sportfish Attitude Adjustment II Fort Lauderdale, FL
Joe Tomaini
1988 Sportfish
Attitude Adjustment II
Bath, NC
1988 Sportfish
Attitude Adjustment II
Bath, NC
I was told there is a sump under the pick up area and that is where the debris will congregate. This is also where the water should be. The sides of the tank are probalay coated in the substance you have been getting but I am not sure how you would get to them to clean them. The shop vac should do the job but I would be cautious. When my fuel was polished they sucked all the fuel from the bottom of the tank and filtered it with screen to remove all the larger debris. Then the fuel went into a series off 20 to 2 micron filters to finish the process. The first five to ten gallons from the bottom of the tank were the worst with water and algae. My reason for doing this was that I didn't know the history on the tank and wanted to start fresh. Looking back the process was probably worth the $250.00 it cost. I am using the suggested additive and once I cleaned the pickups I have had no other problems. I really do feel that if you pull your pick ups you will be able to suck out the worst of the mess and then use your raycors to filter the rest out until your clean. Have you cleaned your raycors yet. They also can become a place for all the sediment to settle. I remember you clogged your secondaries so I would run the 5 (Brown)micron filters if it were me until the mess goes away. Good luck and I been there! Captain Larry Wren 305-360-4900 www.apirateschoice.com [img]http://www.bertram33.com/photogallery/p ... Choice.jpg[/img]
Captain Larry Wren 305-360-4900 www.apirateschoice.com 

Syd... On my '83 FBC, which has always been diesel, I tried to "vacuum clean" the tank when it only had a few galllons in it. I bought a small inexpensive 12 volt rubber impellor pump and used a couple of hose fittings to allow me to use some clear (probably vinyl)hose so I could see what was flowing through it. On the suction end I added a piece of bendable copper tubing to use as a wand to reach the bottom of the tank. I mounted the pump and a simple outboard engine type canister fuel filter on a wooden base and handle, and removed the access plate on the tank where the fuel level sensor is located, sucked fuel out of the tank and forced it through the filter, returning it to the tank. The system worked great. I dragged the end of the copper tube back and forth all over the part of the bottom under the opening, but the tank baffles kept me from accessing the whole bottom. With the clear tubing I could see the fuel coming from the tank and returning to it. I saw wood splinters, small fiberglas chips, and what looked like sand or grit in the suction.. and clean fuel returning. I just wish I could have reached the rest of the bottom. BTW: I did not feel anything that could have been a sump on my tank, and I have not seen one in the pictures of old tanks shown elsewhere on this forum.
Frank B - IRGuy@aol.com "Phoenix" 1983 FBC Cummins 6Bs - 315HP Wilmington, NC
Clean the pick ups! Only will take a couple of hours and use your suction device in the area where the fuel is picked up from. Isn't there a baffle between the two areas? Captain Larry Wren 305-360-4900 www.apirateschoice.com [img]http://www.bertram33.com/photogallery/p ... Choice.jpg[/img]
Captain Larry Wren 305-360-4900 www.apirateschoice.com 

It is true that diesel fuel will not ignite with a direct flame. It is the vapor that igites. Diesel like jet fuel has a much lower flash point than gas (which is one of the resons we feel it is a safer product). Air is heated when compressed, fuel is vaporized through the injectors, spark is introduced and ignition is the result. However a spark can and will ignite diesel or jet fuel vapors and precautions must be taken. When you fuel a jet aircraft from a fuel truck the two must be grounded or a static spark will cause a fire. I did see a 12,000 gallon fuel truck burn and melt to the ground while at the same time burn the entire left wing off a 747 during improper fueling operations. The warmer the fuel in the tank, and with the smallest amount of diesel fuel in the tank the greater amount of fuel vapors will be present. Please use caution when you defuel your tank.
Cliff Schultz 1983 33' SF Cummins VT 555's "Final Approach" 

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Aussie Syd
- Commander

- Posts: 125
- Joined: Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:55 pm
- Location: Australia
Thanks to everyone for your input I have noted all of your concerns and shall heed your advice with care. It is interesting since my problem first occurred with block fuel lines I have cleaned out the lines and racors replaced the cartridges added diesel additives and started using the boat regularly every weekend with 4to 6 hours runs at a time and used about half of the tanks fuel.( first time in 2 years) The result has been encouraging fuel remains to be looking clear with only a small noticeable amount of brown dust on the plastic cones and the clear bowl on the racor remains no worse over the past 3 weeks. As recommended I think the best way to start with is the fuel pick ups, pull them out and see how they look, if they are really bad it will mean I'll have to clean out the tank , however if the fuel additives are doing their job maybe I might just get away without doing it,I keep updating you as we go Thanks Guys Syd


